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Handloom Industry in Vidarbha: Tradition Amidst Decline

Handloom Industry in Vidarbha: Tradition Amidst Decline
Handloom Industry in Vidarbha: Tradition Amidst Decline

Vidarbha’s handloom industry reflects a quiet persistence that has resisted the overwhelming tide of mechanised textiles. Spread across districts such as Nagpur, Bhandara, and Gadchiroli, this sector is small but carries deep cultural and historical significance.


Over the past five years, handloom weaving in Vidarbha has seen continued contraction, challenged by competition, changing consumer preferences, and structural weaknesses.


Yet, amidst these challenges, there are efforts underway to preserve its dwindling traditions.



A Shrinking Industry


Maharashtra is home to approximately 3,354 registered handlooms, employing about 3,509 workers. Vidarbha accounts for only a fraction of this number.


In villages like Dhapewada in Nagpur district, the decline is stark. Once hosting around 40 active loom households, this number has fallen to just six families.

This contraction mirrors the broader national shift, where handwoven cloth has struggled against the dominance of powerloom and mill-made textiles.


Efforts to revitalise the industry have not yielded a significant recovery. Traditional artisans, many from the Halba Koshti community, continue weaving largely out of habit. Younger generations have shifted to alternative employment opportunities, citing the lack of sustainable income from weaving.



Localised studies suggest an 80–90% drop in the number of weavers in many parts of Vidarbha, and the situation has shown no significant reversal.


Nagpur’s weaving villages and Bhandara’s once-thriving clusters now present a more fragmented picture. Though government and institutional schemes exist, the decline in artisanal handloom weaving has continued, exacerbated by limited market access and changing demand patterns.


Prominent government figures have called for modernisation efforts, including the introduction of electric looms and digital marketing strategies. However, the uptake remains slow in a sector rooted in tradition.


The handloom sector in Vidarbha is beset by several persistent challenges. Chief among them is market competition.


The influx of cheaper, machine-made textiles has sharply reduced the demand for handwoven products.

In weaving centres like Dhapewada, older artisans speak of the sharp decline in customers and the resulting financial instability. Artisan cooperatives, once strong, are now struggling to remain viable.


Raw material supply also remains a challenge. Vidarbha’s weavers depend heavily on cotton and tussar silk. Districts like Gondia, Gadchiroli, Bhandara, and Chandrapur are key suppliers of tussar silk cocoons.


Cotton, historically cultivated in areas like Wardha and Nagpur, has been susceptible to climate variability. While recent high-density planting programmes have boosted cotton yields to around 19 quintals per acre, inconsistent monsoons and rising temperatures continue to pose a threat.


Labour shortages add another layer of difficulty. The weaving community is ageing, and fewer young people are interested in taking up the craft. Many artisans have migrated to urban centres or taken up different occupations.


The absence of fresh talent further endangers the continuity of traditional weaving skills.

Seasonal migration for agricultural work also affects loom operations in weaving villages, disrupting continuity and reducing overall output.


Vidarbha’s climate, marked by hot summers and erratic rainfall, indirectly impacts the handloom industry. Cotton output and silk cocoon production, both climate-sensitive, suffer in years of extreme weather events.


Although detailed local records on this are scarce, national studies indicate that climate change remains a significant risk to cotton cultivation, a key input for the weaving sector.



Products That Define Vidarbha’s Weaving Tradition

Products That Define Vidarbha’s Weaving Tradition
Products That Define Vidarbha’s Weaving Tradition

Despite these challenges, Vidarbha remains known for a select range of distinctive handloom products.


The Patti Kinar saree of Nagpur is one such example. Crafted by the Halba Koshti community, this lightweight cotton saree is ideal for the region’s hot climate.

Characterised by a plain 3-inch border and extra-weft dot motifs, the saree was once a popular choice but has now largely faded from the market. Today, only about six families continue to weave this design.


Another notable product is the Karvat Kati saree, distinguished by its saw-tooth border pattern. Produced mainly in Bhandara and Nagpur districts, this saree utilises local tussar silk and has been recognised as a traditional textile under Maharashtra’s 2023 Textile Policy. Karvat Kati sarees have been showcased at various textile fairs and are slowly gaining attention as heritage products.



Bhandara is also known for its Kosa (tussar) silk fabrics. Villages like Pauni and Mohadi have a history of producing pure silk textiles, once known as “Dongri.” These un-dyed silk products were popular in inter-state trade and continue to find a niche market among handloom enthusiasts. Bhandara’s tussar silk has also been proposed for geographical indication (GI) status.


Other products include Munga and Ghicha fabrics, traditionally crafted with floral motifs using dobby looms.


These fabrics, combining silk and cotton, are protected under GI for Maharashtra. Although production is limited, they feature in collections curated by local designers who seek to bring traditional Vidarbha weaves to a broader audience.


In addition to these, simple handloom cottons known as “Ganga-Jamuna” fabrics and Vidarbha khadi maintain a modest presence in local markets. However, the overall volume of production and sales remains low, with most weavers catering to niche buyers through State Handloom shops and regional exhibitions.


Support Systems and New Initiatives


Government policies and NGO interventions have tried to bolster the handloom sector in Vidarbha. The National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP) provides grants for cluster development, skill training, design innovation, and marketing support.


Weaver-specific schemes like concessional loans under the Weavers’ MUDRA programme and insurance initiatives have been rolled out at the national level.


Maharashtra’s 2023 Textile Policy extends these benefits to weavers across the state. Special provisions under the policy include bonuses of ₹10,000–₹15,000 for weavers of traditional textiles like the Karvat Kati saree.

Additionally, the policy offers 200 units of free electricity per month to handloom weaver households. The Maharashtra Handloom Corporation has launched an online sales platform to facilitate market access for artisans.


Infrastructure development has also been encouraged through the establishment of block-level handloom clusters.


While Vidarbha does not have a large state-run weaving park, related schemes have supported the development of rural weaving hubs by providing work sheds and common facility centres. Solar power subsidies for small mills indirectly benefit handloom units by reducing operating costs.


Educational institutions and NGOs have played a crucial role in recent revival efforts. The National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) Mumbai has engaged in projects aimed at reviving the Patti Kinar saree.



Student teams have worked closely with local artisans, offering training in contemporary design trends and digital marketing.


NGOs like the Kalaswaraj Foundation have been instrumental in documenting the heritage of Karvat Kati and other traditional weaves while facilitating market linkages and providing access to micro loans.


In Nagpur, local NGOs have initiated craft training programmes for women, aiming to provide them with alternative livelihood options linked to traditional weaving skills.


Cooperative societies in Bhandara, although reduced in number, continue to operate with support from self-help groups and rural development schemes.

Gadchiroli district, while not a major weaving centre, plays a significant role as a supplier of raw silk. The district’s contribution lies mainly in sericulture, with tribal communities engaged in silk cocoon farming.


Various initiatives have sought to strengthen these supply chains, ensuring a steady flow of raw materials to weaving clusters in neighbouring districts.


Despite the persistent challenges, these coordinated efforts from the government, NGOs, and educational institutions offer a semblance of support to Vidarbha’s handloom industry. Whether these measures will result in a significant revival remains uncertain, but they provide a foundation upon which the region’s weaving traditions can continue to exist.



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The NewsDirt is a trusted source for authentic, ground-level journalism, highlighting the daily struggles, public issues, history, and local stories from Vidarbha’s cities, towns, and villages. Committed to amplifying voices often ignored by mainstream media, we bring you reliable, factual, and impactful reporting from Vidarbha’s grassroots.

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